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On 7/11/2024 2:02 PM, Zen Cycle wrote:LED bulbs are sold in different colors and temperatures. It ins't difficult to closely approximate your preference.On 7/11/2024 2:59 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:The color of the light is different.On 7/11/2024 1:10 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:incandescents are _horribly_ inefficient. IMO the big beef is just people don't wish to be told to change.On Thu, 11 Jul 2024 11:19:34 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:>
>On 7/11/2024 9:56 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:>On Wed, 10 Jul 2024 12:31:48 -0400, Frank Krygowski
<frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>On 7/10/2024 11:27 AM, Zen Cycle wrote:>>>
It's already happened with 60 watt incandescents:
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=60+wat+lightbulb+hoarding
That's hilarious!
Starting in about 2011, various agencies started banning the sale
products containing lead. That included the common 63/37 lead tin
solder in common use in electronics. The various lead-free solders
were marginal replacements at best. So, I decided to stock up on
rolls of 63/37 solder, which I was assured would soon be unavailable
for retail purchase. Despite the ban, 63/37 is still commonly
available today.
<https://www.google.com/search?q=63%252F37+solder&tbm=isch>
At my rate of consumption, I have about a 50 year supply.
>
When California introduced a ban on VoC (volatile organic compounds),
I was caught by surprise and did not have time to stock up on
important chemicals. I only had what was left on my shelf, which I
still use today (until I run out). Every few years, the various EPA's
(environmental protection agencies) add products and chemicals deemed
harmful to the environment. Added to the list are now TAC's (toxic
air chemicals) and GHG's (green house gases). I've been doing a
little hoarding, but with the wide range of banned products, this has
become difficult.I share that for many things including 70-30 auto body lead,>
which I use for dent fills on steel frames. The
'substitutes' are poor substitutes for the real thing.
I don't do any auto body work except for minor dings. I use Bondo:
<https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40071783/>
mostly because it's dimensionally stable.
>
I may need to do some body work fairly soon. My Subaru is at 165,000
miles and I've been delaying any major repairs. I have a Harbor
Fright auto body tool kit:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/body-and-fender-set-7-piece-63259.html>
but have never learned to use it. We'll soon see if "learn by
destroying" actually works.
>Haven't found any way around the methylene chloride ban,>
which means there is no paint remover in USA now. Things
named 'paint remover' cost more now, they have nice
'environmentally friendly' green panels on the package, but
they will not remove paint.
Agreed. I've had the same problem. I can't find a paint stripper
that works. Aircraft stripper NMP (N-Methyl-2-Pyrrolidone) worked for
a while, but was found to cause birth defects and other maladies. I
haven't tried the latest substitutes:
<https://www.socomore.com/en/paint-stripper-kemstrip-600-1000l-p.html>
>
You can use a heat gun or IR (infrared) gun to strip paint. Also a
combination of paint stripper and heat to accelerate the process might
help:
<https://thecraftsmanblog.com/heat-gun-vs-infrared-paint-stripper/>
<https://thecraftsmanstore.com/product/ir-paint-stripper/>
<https://eco-strip.com>
I don't have any experience with these methods. Methinks the IR gun
is worth trying.
I'm willing to agree about lead solder, paint stripper and even auto body lead (although I've never used the latter).
>
But incandescent heat sources that almost accidentally throw off a little light? Gosh, why not whale oil lamps instead?
>
Which is either important or it's not. For you.
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