Re: Ove Interest?

On Tue, 25 Feb 2025 18:29:29 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
wrote:

Why do you suppose that Liebermann would take your comments and distort thgem to mean that one should use marine bottom paint to protect dry steel bike frames?

Please show me where I suggested the use of marine paints for painting
bicycle frames.  Hint:  I made no such suggestion.  Here is an exact
quote for what I'm trying to do. 

Change-o-topic:
Has anyone actually tried using an rust prevention concoction such as
lanolin (sheep oil) based Fluid Film for preventing rust and
corrosion?
<https://www.fluid-film.com>
<https://www.fluid-film.com/products/>
<https://www.fluid-film.com/recreation-applications/>
If so, which version and did it work?

Andrew suggesting trying linseed oil and John B suggested marine
paints.  If you look back at the comments prior to yours, none of them
had anything to do with bicycles.  See:
Message-ID: <orbarj9866m4c0ro9l0smcaq9fg8bu0cj0@4ax.com>  (Jeff L)
Message-ID: <vp3dlo$1v2d6$3@dont-email.me>  (Andrew)
Message-ID: <6itcrj5gh3hrl7mku90h2bsajeo2vgfs0d@4ax.com>  (John B)

The problem with marine paints is that they do not have a good finish that you want on a bike. If you want a good bicycle finish you can use two part epoxy paint but you must immediately then clean out the sprayer with acytone. Another method is to take your frame to a powder coating company and have the old frame and fork sand blasted clean and you then spray and cook on a powder coating. The are also available in high luster finishes. Though those are quite a bit more expensive. Semi-shiny white finishes are commony used on shop shelves and is quite inexpensive and is difficult to rust through.

--
Jeff Liebermann                 jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272      http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann      AE6KS    831-336-2558