Re: Ove Interest?

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Sujet : Re: Ove Interest?
De : jeffl (at) *nospam* cruzio.com (Jeff Liebermann)
Groupes : rec.bicycles.tech
Date : 27. Feb 2025, 01:49:12
Autres entêtes
Message-ID : <nuavrj1s57okpv8ol6rigthc03lb3ttstg@4ax.com>
References : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
User-Agent : ForteAgent/8.00.32.1272
On Wed, 26 Feb 2025 12:32:34 +0700, John B. <slocombjb@gmail.com>
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Feb 2025 21:04:39 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
>
On Wed, 26 Feb 2025 11:35:33 +0700, John B. <slocombjb@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
rOn Tue, 25 Feb 2025 19:23:49 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
<jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
>
On Tue, 25 Feb 2025 18:29:29 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>
Why do you suppose that Liebermann would take your comments and distort thgem to mean that one should use marine bottom paint to protect dry steel bike frames?
>
Please show me where I suggested the use of marine paints for painting
bicycle frames.  Hint:  I made no such suggestion.  Here is an exact
quote for what I'm trying to do. 
>
Change-o-topic:
Has anyone actually tried using an rust prevention concoction such as
lanolin (sheep oil) based Fluid Film for preventing rust and
corrosion?
<https://www.fluid-film.com>
<https://www.fluid-film.com/products/>
<https://www.fluid-film.com/recreation-applications/>
If so, which version and did it work?
>
Andrew suggesting trying linseed oil and John B suggested marine
paints.  If you look back at the comments prior to yours, none of them
had anything to do with bicycles.  See:
Message-ID: <orbarj9866m4c0ro9l0smcaq9fg8bu0cj0@4ax.com>  (Jeff L)
Message-ID: <vp3dlo$1v2d6$3@dont-email.me>  (Andrew)
Message-ID: <6itcrj5gh3hrl7mku90h2bsajeo2vgfs0d@4ax.com>  (John B)
>
The problem with marine paints is that they do not have a good  inish that you want on a bike. If you want a good bicycle finish you can use two part epoxy paint but you must immediately then clean out the sprayer with acytone. Another method is to take your frame to a powder coating company and have the old frame and fork sand blasted clean and you then spray and cook on a powder coating. The are also available in high luster finishes. Though those are quite a bit more expensive. Semi-shiny white finishes are commony used on shop shelves and is quite inexpensive and is difficult to rust through.
>
Oh! I thought you7 wee painting showers (to take a bath)
>
Yes.  I wanted to find a general purpose rust prevention spray that
would work with almost anything.  Something like WD-40 except
optimized for rust protection and probably conversion to iron
phosphate.  For my shower, the plan was to use Fluid Film (lanolin) as
temporary protection until I do something more permanent with the
shower.
>
You seem to have a lot of "rust" problems... far more than I can
remember having in a series of tropical countries. I don't remember
ever  have as many problems as you seem to have. But we always sprayed
(power tools any way) with an anti rust spray every once in a while..

Yes, I really did have quite a few rust related problems.  They came
from multiple sources and events:

1.  My house came with a nearly flat roof made from two layers of roll
roofing.  It leaked badly.  The condensation from the water in the
furniture and carpeting produced some rust.  Having a few buckets
under the drips was good enough.  I had planned to replace the roof
but it took about 3 years to save the money needed. 

2.  When we replaced the roof, I discovered I had some carpenter ants
in the pine roofing.  I was also told that the 4x6 beams were
inadequate.  I replaced them with 4x8 beams and increased the number
of beams for better stiffness.  However, I made a big mistake.  For a
roofer, I hired a friend of a friend, who turned out to be marginally
competent.  He also overbought the roll roofing, returned the excess
to the yard for credit, and pocketed the money.  When the first rain
arrived, the roof leaked far worse than previously.  All I could do
was add more buckets until I could find and wet patch the new leaks.

3.  I later created a very different problem.  I was keeping my
chemicals in a bedroom closet.  I had a bottle of nitric acid on a
shelf.  The bottle was stored horizontal, which allowed any pressure
build up in the bottle to push nitric acid liquid and fumes out of the
bottle and into closet.  Everything made of steel was attacked by the
acid and rusted.  I didn't notice until after the sliding door knob
crumbled to iron oxide powder in my hand.  The fumes also attacked the
kitchen appliances.  There were rusty bubbles on all the sheet metal
appliances.  I can post photos if anyone is interested.  The fumes
also attacked the steel shower along the baseboard.  I tried to patch
the damage with paint, which failed miserably.  I had to wash
everything with alkaline water (sodium bicarbonate or laundry
detergent).  For difficult to access areas, I used spray oven cleaner
(mostly sodium hydroxide).  The aluminum bicycle parts and frames
survived nicely, but the steel parts and frames had to be individually
cleaned and coated.

4.  In the distant past, worked for various radio repair and
manufacturing companies:
<https://www.linkedin.com/in/jeff-liebermann-151823/details/experience/>
All of them required a good understanding of corrosion.  I've worked
with companies and individuals on corrosion reduction.  When I see
rust, I usually try to eliminate it.  That includes using various
sprays to protect the base metal.  Lanolin spray might be a good way
to fix my problems with rust.



--
Jeff Liebermann                 jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272      http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann      AE6KS    831-336-2558

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14 Feb 25   `* Re: Ove Interest?82Catrike Ryder

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