Re: Ove Interest?

On 2/26/2025 7:02 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Thu, 20 Feb 2025 08:00:07 -0600, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
 

On 2/19/2025 11:19 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Wed, 19 Feb 2025 16:53:13 -0500, Radey Shouman
<shouman@comcast.net> wrote:
>

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> writes:
>

On Wed, 19 Feb 2025 08:47:06 -0500, Zen Cycle <funkmaster@hotmail.com>
wrote:

Polishing up the howitzer, are we?

>
No. My use is much more mundane.  I'm looking for a universal rust
inhibiting spray that I can safely use on most everything.  Fluid Film
seems to be positioning themselves as the WD-40 of rust.  The
immediate problem is that I have 2 bicycles sitting outside, covered
with plastic, but still rusting a little.  Evapo-Rust works well for
removing rust from bicycle chains, but is not suitable for rust
prevention.  I also have a shower built from painted steel sheet
metal.  After about 60 years (since the house was built) the paint is
flaking off and the underlying steel sheet metal is rusting.  I really
don't need a bathroom remodel project at this time and prefer to save
the existing steel shower.  I also have boxes of hardware, an old
refrigerator that I use for storage, and steel tools that are
susceptible to rust.  The equipment and tools that were zinc plated or
covered with zinc primer before painting are holding up well. However,
I don't have room to build a paint spray booth or power coating oven,
that will be necessary to repaint everything.  For my guns, I use a
tacky lube, such as chain saw bar oil.

>
I have a can of fluid film, and spray it on steel objects that are
likely to stay outside, various bits of vehicle undersides, and so
forth.  "Boxes of hardware" sounds like a likely application, as are
steel tools.
>
I believe it's essentially lanolin in some kind of volatile
carrier.  Smells vaguely like sheep, but not as nice as a wet sweater.

>
I would not be surprised if the lanolin fragrance was added to the
formulation.  Long ago, I almost went to work for International
Flavors and Fragrances.  I quite when I discovered the commute was
over an hour each way.
<https://www.iff.com/scent/>
Done wrong, lanolin smells like wet dog.
>

I haven't done anything scientific to test it, but it seems to do some
good, better than WD-40.

>
I should hope so.  WD-40 does one thing very well.  It displaces
water.  For everything else, it's 2nd best, or equal to "mineral oil"
which is the base oil for most oil based cleaners.
"Uses of WD-40 Multi-Use Product"
<https://files.wd40.com/pdf/WD-40_Multi_Use_Product_2000_Uses_final.pdf>
>

It's not a paint or permanent surface
treatment, if it's out in the weather it will eventually wash off.  I
don't think it would do any good in your shower unless on those parts
that don't actually get wet very often.  It also stays a bit sticky and
may collect dust.

>
If it lasts through the winter, I'll be happy.  For the shower, it
will need to last only as long as it takes for me to get setup for
repairs and painting.  It looks like the existing 1960's paint is
enamel, which is a VoC and banned in California.  I'm looking into
just ripping everything out and installing acrylic or PCV wall panels
as an alternative:
<https://www.google.com/search?num=10&q=pvc%20shower%20wall%20panels&udm=2>

 

I have installed those.  No too expensive, not too
difficult.

 I have no experience with plastic shower panels.  The price is
tolerable especially because I can do the work myself and do not need
to hire someone.
 

If you get past the 'slumlord aesthetic' they're
quite functional.

 The area I live in could easily be described as a borderline slum. The
polite term is "rustic".
 One nice thing about the plastic wall panels is that they can be
ripped out and later replaced with tile.  Tile walls and a plastic pan
might look a little odd, but I think can be made to work.  Also, a
plastic wall panel type shower could be done in a weekend.  The same
shower in tile would take me at least a week.
 

For my own house, I gutted the room and did it all in
ceramic tile.

 Nice.  I would also use tile if I could do it myself or could find
someone to trade tile work for computers.
 

I had good advice going in.
As with so many things, preparation is critical. Rip everything out and start by replacing joists with water damage (Of course there is water damage. Otherwise you wouldn't be doing this at all). Ensure all joists are dead level in both directions. I went with 3/4" exterior plywood for the subfloor. Don't skimp on that, you need a solid flat surface otherwise your new tile floor will crack (and leak).
--
Andrew Muzi
am@yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971