Re: Bleeding Disc's

On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 19:06:20 -0400, Frank Krygowski
<frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On 3/22/2025 5:36 PM, cyclintom wrote:

On Sat Mar 22 15:44:35 2025 AMuzi  wrote:

On 3/22/2025 3:13 PM, cyclintom wrote:

On Fri Mar 21 13:14:24 2025 AMuzi  wrote:

>
Detach caliper from its mount so it hangs below line.
>
Slack handlebar clamp at the stem if needed to get the lever
port horizontal.
>
Push fluid from bottom to top.
Tap caliper to dislodge air bubbles while pushing the fluid.
>
You're welcome.

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Thanks Andrew, but isn't that more complicated than simply bleeding it backwards?
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I did discover that the back actuator line wasn't all the way tightened which was leaking air in. I will have to develop the habit of always tightening connectors all the way when they are installed rather than going back after everthing is properly fitted.
>
The rear derailleur is giving me trouble again. Upper and lower limits are set but I can't tighten the shift cable tight enough not to run out of adjustment in the cable tensioner and there's no room to use the cable tightener on that long arm rear derailuer. I suppose I will have to find my misplaced pliers to pull the cable since it is a left hande operation and I can't pull hard enough with the longnose pliers.

>
Right.  When all else fails, read the manual.
Hose coupler torque is 7nm.
>
Unlike an auto clutch or brake system, Shimano hydraulic
discs are by design purged bottom to top.
>
Removing the caliper from its mount lets it fall to a
position lower than the line and also allows you to turn it
and tap it to free air pockets not near the line inlet while
purging fluid.

 
 
 
 
Where do you find a torgue wrench thet fits an 8 mm open end wrench even if the manual was stupid enough to pretend those are normal and easily available tools?

>
It's about 5 ft*lbs. It's not critical. But if I wanted to measure it
precisely I'd probably just use a spring scale on a standard wrench. Or
you could use a crow's foot adapter. For precision, align the adapter
parallel to the applied force, or else calculate the proper compensation
for the difference in lever arm. Torque is force * perpendicular distance.

I have one of these:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/38-in-drive-59-59-ft-lb-digital-torque-adapter-58705.html>
Not the best for the purpose, but good enough for my abuse.  The big
problem is that it doesn't work well at the low end of its torque
range.  5.9-59 ft-lb or 8-80 nm. 

More:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=digital%20torque%20adapter&udm=2>
<https://www.google.com/search?q=digital%20torque%20wrench%201%2F4&udm=2>

If I want to measure very low torque, I use a luggage scale and some
kind of box, open end or socket wrench:
<https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-wrench-luggage-scale-d_1909.html>
--
Jeff Liebermann                 jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272      http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann      AE6KS    831-336-2558