Re: car service question

On Tue, 3 Jun 2025 10:12:47 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

On 6/3/2025 9:00 AM, Zen Cycle wrote:

On 6/2/2025 8:11 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Mon, 2 Jun 2025 13:22:45 -0500, Mark J cleary
<mcleary08@comcast.net> wrote:
>

Ok it is not a bike but this is a good group. My 2019
Ford Escape needs
new battery it is the original. No trouble but going to
replace due to
age voltage on meter says 12.4 a but under but ok.
>
I also need an oil change. I generally use the quick lube
place down the
street but one stop seems to be the easiest.
>
I made an appointment at the Walmart I go to for
groceries. I am a bit
dubious of Walmart for auto stuff but frankly they could
be just as good
was anything else. There batteries are way cheaper than
AutoZOne and
Orielly.
>
So did I make as mistake should I have gone to a regular
car service
center. My Escape runs fine only 30K miles on it.

>
It's probably to late but this might be useful for others
shopping for
car batteries.  With lead-acid car and UPS batteries, what
you're
paying for is the lead and lead oxide.  The more lead in a
given size
battery, the longer it will last.  Therefore, the idea is
to buy the
heaviest (actually the most dense) battery possible. 
Since lead
(11.34 g/cm^3) is about 6 times as dense as sulfuric acid
(1.83
g/cm^3) any attempt to replace lead with electrolyte is
going to be
obvious in the math.  Also, if you look at distributor
(and possibly
warehouse) pricing, you'll find that the more expensive
batteries
weigh more.
>
However, you can't trust the battery weights from eBay,
Amazon, and
various big box stores.  They all lie about the weight of
their
batteries.  Bring your own electronic or spring scale,
straps, and a
stiff bar or pipe to suspend the scale.  If you don't want
suspend the
battery, find an electronic platform scale and weigh the
battery on
the ground.
<https://www.google.com/search?q=platform%20scale&udm=2>
>
There seem to be a variety of battery types available. 
Rather than
list all the possible, I'll leave that exercise to the
reader.  Also,
since the weight varies somewhat between Lead-Acid, LiIon
and AGM
batteries, I can't provide an estimated battery weight.
>
Kelly Blue Book comments on your car and battery:
<https://www.kbb.com/ford/escape/2019/battery-replacement/>
>
When you measured the battery voltage, was the engine
running and the
battery charging?  If so, turn off the engine, let the
battery cool
down, and then measure the voltage at the battery
terminals with the
engine *NOT* running and the headlights, A/C, dashboard,
etc turned
*OFF*.
<https://www.google.com/search?
q=battery%20voltage%20with%20engine%20off>
"A good car battery should read 12.4-12.9 volts when the
car is off.
Anything lower doesn't necessarily mean the battery is
bad. Your car's
electrical system may have drained it, or there may be an
issue with
your alternator".
>

 
I've always put the largest battery that would fit in the
space provided. In my Element I took measurements of the
space and replaced it with the largest one I could find -
don't remember the size offhand, but I do know it's
substantially larger than the stock battery with nearly
double the CCA. The challenge was making sure the post
configuration would allow the cables to reach.
 

>
+1
I learned that as a teenager the first time I needed a
battery. Clerk asked for which car. Before I could reply
'Rambler straight six' my expert pal told him 'Cadillac
Eldorado'.  Same price and bigger, heavier really is better.
>
(which makes little difference until it's -25F, and then it
does.)

Makes a difference when it's 90+ degrees half the year, too.

--
C'est bon
Soloman