Sujet : Re: Outdoor Welding
De : none (at) *nospam* none.com99 (Bob La Londe)
Groupes : rec.crafts.metalworkingDate : 28. Jun 2025, 21:53:35
Autres entêtes
Organisation : A noiseless patient Spider
Message-ID : <103pkof$12a0h$1@dont-email.me>
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On 6/27/2025 9:38 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:103mfvg$87c2$1@dont-email.me...
On 6/26/2025 6:06 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
I learned to creep up on damageable things while wiggling paper between the part and the height gauge or endmill. When the paper drags I have a few thousandths of safe clearance left.
>
Paper is fine, if you measure the paper. I learned that right here on
this group. Most quality printer paper is about .003, but it can vary.
Its also slow, and if your reference surface is wet or covered in oil
its even slower because it changes the paper or you must take the time
to clean the surface.
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I use paper only to tell when to advance more slowly, by thousandths. I don't trust it as a feeler gauge either, only as a cushion.
Another trick if you are using HSS, or if you are very careful using *carbide is to use a precision dowel pin, gage pin, shank of an end mill, 123 block, gage block, etc. Start with your cutter slightly less than your precision dimension fromt he stock, and slowly move it until your gage just slides between. This is "maybe" more accurate than paper, but I treat it the same since the preload of the lead screws is in the opposite direction.
I prefer an edge finder, a tool height setter, and pre-measured tool heights, but you never know what kind of situation you may find yourself in.
* If using a sharp carbide cutter you have to take a lot of care to make sure you do not chip a cutting edge using the slip gage method.
-- Bob La LondeCNC Molds N Stuff-- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.www.avg.com