Re: Successful Transplant !

On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 22:17:18 -0400, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 14:27:15 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>

On 10/25/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Thu, 24 Oct 2024 17:15:56 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
 

On 10/24/2024 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

On 10/21/2024 3:29 PM, Snag wrote:

    I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've
abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
    I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a
limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
things a bit more lively too .

>
I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
>
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip.  I can't recall if it was rear only or
front and rear.
>
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
>
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't
speak to the slippery stuff.  I try to avoid that at all cost.
>
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.
>
FYI:  I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401.  Not today though.  Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam.  I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep.  Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle.  I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.
>

>
   I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted
the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves
2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .

  Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the  speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
the basic programming involved.
 

>
  Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it
will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new
when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to
function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup
is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by
engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do
know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was
rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got
lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the
trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .

If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold
and under braking. If it has a low gear lockout that all gets better -
(Some early TH350s with locking converter used the simple setup but
even THEY worked better cold with a thermo lockout - and I believe
they still had a speed lockout (built into the trans) operated by
governor pressure.  The newer stuff does it all with the TCM reading
VSS and CTS as well as brake - allowing better compression braking as
well as transparent engagement and cold operation.

 Your transmission MAY also have a temperature switch inside which
will prevent lockup on a colt transmission - and if defective COULD
prevent lockup - perios. SOME 700R4 traanys ahve the switch, some
don't. SOME have the 3/4 switch, some do not. Only way to know is to
drop the pan. Also, some have one wire (self grounded) solenoid,
others have 2 wire. One wire solenoid USUALLY has external 4th gear
pressure switch and will require a relay to enable it or you risk
cooking the switch (if it is not a heavy enough switch)