Re: I "SNAG"ed A Couple Tool Boxes Yesterday

On 6/19/2024 12:02 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

On 6/18/2024 5:32 PM, Snag wrote:

On 6/18/2024 5:06 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

On 6/18/2024 1:35 PM, Snag wrote:

On 6/18/2024 2:39 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

On 6/18/2024 12:03 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:v4siak$1f893$1@dont-email.me...
>
I plan to use this set just for gunsmith only tools, cleaning supplies,
and parts.  It will clean out several drawers and a couple square feet
of surface on my front office work bench.  I may put some reloading
supplies and a couple presses in it as well if the bottom drawers are
deep enough.  Well, until I get the file cabinets out of the file room,
and get a proper work bench built in that room.
>
Bob La Londe
>
---------------------------
>
Do you know a good non-fouling target load for a "BP-only" 45-70 Sharps or original Trapdoor?
>

>
I do have a BP loading manual somewhere that I can use to look up some loads if you like, but you may be more comfortable buying your own copy than taking the word of "some guy on the Internet."
>

>
   Hodgdons has a BP loading chart on their website . I don't know if it covers BP metallic cartridges though . I was looking for load data for 1860 Remington reproduction cap-n-ball revolvers .

>
>
The Lyman book shows 44 revolver from 20-35gr with round ball, and from 20-30 with conical slugs.  1860 Remington army is typically a 44 cal, and you shave .451 bullets into it.
>
If you are target shooting short to medium range I'd start at 20 if your lever arm will push them in deep enough.  Less powder means less fouling, although with BP that may be a distinction without a difference.
>
>

  One's a .36 Navy , the other is a .44 Army . Both were built from kits , the .36 by me and the .44 by my father . It's been a long time since these have been fired , but I seem to recall filling the chambers level full and pressing a ball in flush - or a bit below . I need to replace the hand on the .36 , I damaged it when I built it and it's never been quite right . Got a new hand , just haven't taken time to fit it .

 I did that the last time I shot C&B revolvers, and I recall the fouling was pretty horrible.  That was using Goex, but the first thing the BP revolver groups said was too much powder.  The second was Goex produces a lot of fouling.
 

   I downloaded the Hodgdens BP data , I think I'll start with around 25 gr for the .36 and 30 for the .44 . I'll start with the Pyrodex P , then try the 777 FFF .
   A question since you have gunsmithing experience . This .36 Navy revolver has always shot about the width of the front sight to the left . The octagonal barrel is not clocked precisely to the frame , if I can rotate the barrel just enough to bring it into alignment it will also correct the windage . How big a deal is this to do ? One thing - the finish on this revolver (and my CVA .50 Plains Rifle) is straight out of the Browning Arms tanks in SLC , courtesy of my friend since childhood , The MudShark . Muddy was killed in a motorcycle accident a few years ago and I'd rather leave it the way it is rather than risk damage to the finish .
--
Snag
  It's great to be straight !