Sujet : Re: Mill parts
De : muratlanne (at) *nospam* gmail.com (Jim Wilkins)
Groupes : rec.crafts.metalworkingDate : 20. Nov 2024, 19:28:56
Autres entêtes
Organisation : A noiseless patient Spider
Message-ID : <vhl9rg$7h7l$1@dont-email.me>
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"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
news:fu6sjjp3m5s7lh05eem1hqh7bb6bpo8ilq@4ax.com...On Tue, 19 Nov 2024 22:38:16 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
<
muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
news:7a9qjjds38pts5ul6mi564k9i7pm3gr0fr@4ax.com...
>
Delrin works well for thermally forming a nut on an existing metal
leadscrew. There are many you-tube videos.
>
Joe
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Generic acetal cold-formed to sharp points when I knurled it.
Yes. So do it warm.
By thermal forming I mean melting.
Here is a related posting, but one would not want to take the real
leadscrew and make it into a big self-tapping screw. I haven't found
the videos on doing this on the actual leadscrew without damaging or
risking it.
.<
https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Anti-Backlash-Nuts-Super-Cheap-and-Simple/>
And as others have said, no glue will stick to delrin, so the
attachment must be mechanical.
Joe
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I would try making a mild steel tap that closely resembled the leadscrew to pre-form the Delrin before compressing it onto the heated original. Possibly if the nut blank was tapped slightly tight and both heated the original could be screwed into it. Annealing might relax the plastic to a sliding fit. The tap could give ID and OD clearance so only the thread flanks are snug. The lathe will ensure the correct pitch and the tap's thread form doesn't have to be perfect.