Re: Moving a 40ft High Cube - SHELVES

On 5/9/2025 4:08 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:vvllee$2vttp$2@dont-email.me...
 I have built some very heavy duty shelving many times from 2x
construction lumber and plywood, but being joined with framing nails and
ring nails means its not easily reconfigurable.  At one time I was
making so much of it I had two framing nailers so I could swap from
framing to sheeting without reloading my gun.
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 I've been using Torx head structural screws from the big box stores to build heavy shed shelving and attach 2x4 diagonal bracing to my timber framed firewood sheds for two decades, and they've held the weight of a NH snow load and me climbing the shelves, as their framing is full height 2x3s with an open attic space above for skis etc. The screws drive like drywall screws, and being hardened hold like lag screws, and they remove easily for modifications. Their ceramic coating protects them from rusting pretty well.
 The shelves are 2' deep to use plywood efficiently and because I can't reach much further. That shed is 8' wide outside like a High Cube, and the interior space between racks is narrow enough to climb using the uprights and shelf edges, an arm and leg on each side. A temporary plywood table bridging the racks supports whatever I'm storing or retrieving, high enough to reach the attic. The floor aisle width is less because I can store stacked paint cans, long handled garden tools and boxed equipment on the sides.
 The shelf racks stop short of the door to leave space for tall objects, an 8' and shorter stepladders and the gantry hoist track channels plus spares. Their uprights are attached to the rafter ties at the top. This is a very nice, light weight and stable stepladder:
https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Werner-8-ft-Aluminum-Step-Ladder-12-ft- Reach-Height-with-250-lb-Load-Capacity-Type-I-Duty-Rating-368/100659876?
 My idea for the roof has worked well. The roofing is corrugated steel on the sunny side and clear corrugated polycarbonate for interior light on the north. Every third 2' wide section is a removable hatch that rests on cleats, so I can stand up through the openings and reach to the center of each pair of panels to drive their screws, or remove and replace damaged ones. The hatches slide under and catch on the ridge cap and latch with screen door hooks at the lower end.
jsw

I do not have any problem whatsoever building wood shelves that will hold literal tons of wire, cable, and construction supplies.  even through multiple earthquakes.  I do not want to build more wood shelves.   In fact after emptying a shelf system in my shop now that is 14 feet tall I am considering taking it down to give more room for working on things in the shop.  It currently stands between two work bays in my shop.
I may build some wood shelves in the future on top of my office, but right now I like the heavy wire rack shelves I already have installed in the new shipping container.  When a little more cash becomes available I intend to buy more.  I want them for the shear laziness of being able to easily reconfigure them if my expected needs change.
Totally unrelated to this I am considering some pallet racking to make a mezzanine in a couple areas of my shop for an upper level storage, but the roof of my office and machine room are not fully utilized yet. fine.
For anybody who just wants shelves and knows exactly how they want them configured 2x4/6 frames and plywood shelves are still cheaper and stronger than this steel and wire racking.  In spite of the stupid price of lumber post covid.  Its "almost" impossible to build them wrong.
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Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
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