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"David Billington" wrote in message news:ut5b5o$352d4$1@dont-email.me...Did you read that page as they mention the process I mentioned and you were trying to test.
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On 16/03/2024 23:36, Jim Wilkins wrote:>>
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"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:ut5195$334ch$1@dont-email.me...
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"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:ut4jh5$309ec$1@dont-email.me...
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I doubled it to 200 Lbs, one tick mark, on a 3/8" thick square of red oak
in a plastic bag and added water about 20 minutes ago. So far the gauge
needle hasn't moved.
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4 hours later, if anything the pressure has decreased by the pointer width.
Into the freezer with it, until I need the space for the kettle of beef stew
I'm cooking.
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2 more hours, 0F, the pressure is zero and the C clamp isn't tight. Out to see if the pressure recovers as the gauge warms.
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It does, a little.
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Either wet wedging doesn't work or I missed something.
Why I asked about the type of oak is that I was told red oak has an open
cell structure and can allow water to wick into the wood easily which
isn't the case with other types of oak, maybe in this case that is
preventing any cellular swelling or allowing any pressure to squeeze the
water out. Can you repeat the test with white oak. I have some English
oak here but my force gauge is out of action until I replace the
loadcell lead.
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My white oak is still in logs so sample prep could take a while and this is a busy time of year, I need to split and stack next year's firewood to dry, upgrade a few things on the sawmill and get the logs out of my front yard. I paused outdoor projects in mid December and began again in February. The question is academic if steel wedges and feathers are available.
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The gauge has warmed up and the pressure recovered, so maybe the gauge oil shrank?
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More on splitting stone:
https://www.dartmoorcam.co.uk/CAM/SplittingGranite.htm
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