Re: Shortening a Ford axle

Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca> writes:

On Wed, 10 Apr 2024 18:16:30 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>

  I'm shortening an axle to replace a damaged one in a one-off Gold
Wing powered FrankenTrike . The original axle assembly came from IIRC a
Ford Pinto (or Maverick maybe) , modified for the trike . The owner's
son got a little too heavy handed on the throttle and lost control ,
ended up in the woods and partially wrapped around a tree . Bent the
axle flange and cracked the weld where they cut a piece out of the axle .
  So I've got the replacement cut down and almost ready to weld back
together . I was going to MIG it with ER70S6 , but I'm wondering if I
should TIG it with some ER309 or 308 . It's I think a carbon steel , it
sparks orange with short forks - and it's hard . I started out with
carbide cutters but it was pushing the axle out of alignment instead of
cutting . Since axles apparently aren't exactly straight (!!) I decided
to turn a couple of reference bands so I can check runout and have a
concentric band to mount the steady rest , ended up using my Dremel as a
toolpost grinder using reinforced cutoff discs . That worked out well .
So now I need to decide which process and filler I need to use to glue
this thing back into one piece .

  1039 steel of flange mount bearings, 1050 if a c clip axle.
1050 is NOT easy to weld and should be pre and post heat treated.
 1039 is a LOT easier.
>
My recommendation is counter bore both ends and insert a "pin" in both
ends, chamfer the outer diameters, press the axle back together then
weld together with E6013 low hydrogen rod with an arc voltage of about
30 volts -  110 amps for 5/32 rod.
 60000  is plenty strong for the "light duty" this axle will be
subjected to - particularly with the "splice" close to the middle of
the axle.
 I would do this with my DC "buzz-box"

For what it's worth - agree with Snag on weld consumable types.
6013 stick is quite high hydrogen - has to be as only source of
shielding gas is the moisture in the rod.

7018 (CaCO3 based flux) is the "stick rod" which can be low hydrogen.
If baked properly.  Only if baked properly...
7018 needs DC - Direct Current Electrode Positive
Reason can be backed to low hydrogen:
* flux can take the bake
* will dry at heat
* CO2 from dissociation of CaCO3 to CaO (powerful flux) and CO2 (becomes
gas shield) is metallurgically why can be dry.
That CO2 is not a lot.
My reckoning is only use 7018 if have plenty of space to arc-up ahead of
the weld - which you will progress over to burn/melt away the arc-start
region - and only if you have a good long prep. over which to burn the
entire rod no stopping and restarting.
You can do that on an axle?

Snag,
I'm sure you are much more practical that me.  You will be knowing which
welding process / method you are going with - for many reasons which
will be in your experience

I agree about preheat.
Hydrogen cracking isn't going to happen at 100degC or higher.  Hold that
temperature after welding to speed-up hydrogen dissipating away and your
weld will be clear of hydrogen issues.

Best wishes,  Rich S