Re: I "SNAG"ed A Couple Tool Boxes Yesterday

On 6/19/2024 3:24 PM, Snag wrote:

   A question since you have gunsmithing experience . This .36 Navy revolver has always shot about the width of the front sight to the left . The octagonal barrel is not clocked precisely to the frame , if I can rotate the barrel just enough to bring it into alignment it will also correct the windage . How big a deal is this to do ? One thing - the finish on this revolver (and my CVA .50 Plains Rifle) is straight out of the Browning Arms tanks in SLC , courtesy of my friend since childhood , The MudShark . Muddy was killed in a motorcycle accident a few years ago and I'd rather leave it the way it is rather than risk damage to the finish .

First off.  I hack at my own stuff more so than I am any kind of gunsmith or have any real gunsmithing experience.  Mostly I make parts and I replace parts.
There is a lot to unpack in that question.  Exactly how do you plan to twist it all?
If I recall in the old CVA imported kit guns (I built a .36 Navy when I was a kid) there are pins in the front of the frame that align with holes in the barrel assembly.  While not a wide stance it is a 3 point alignment with the cylinder pin.
I suppose if you can twist that assembly you will be changing the position of the front site in relation to the rear site.  In that respect its no different than adjusting adjustable sights.  Well other than being harder and less predictable since you will be moving both the sight and the bore.
The first thing I would do is check the alignment of everything.
Just look everything over and make sure everything looks straight and even.  If anything is out find out why and see if you can fix that.
Then took a look down the bore and see if your timing is right.  That might be hard to see, so if you have access to a bore scope you might pull a nipple, and look in from the back with the hammer in full cock or removed.  If not you can try to "feel" it with a stiff wire hook tool from the front
These kit guns vary from one series and maker to the next.  If its got a blade front it might be just as easy to bend the front blade that much. Or maybe you can work the hammer notch over... which would require re-bluing.
Often its about what you are willing to accept to get what you want.
Recently I repainted the sight holes on a Norinco 1911A1 for the owner. Norincos are somewhat collectable since their import ban in the early 90s when they were accused of selling rocket launchers to LA gangs (probably was made up for political expedience). I didn't want to refinish the gun, so after spending a lot of time cleaning out the old paint i polished on the back flat of the sights, and then reblued those surfaces only before putting new nail polish in the holes.  The owner is quite happy.  I told him I had to reblue it and he cringed, but after looking it over he asked... "Where?"  That's what I was going for.
Yeah, soft jaws are really handy if you need to reef on something. Leather padded plywood jaws are one of my favorites.  Prismatic jaws are handy for somethings too, but simple leather padded wood works for 90-99% of the things you are likely to need to reef on.
This is all just my opinion based on my thoughts and my experiences, and as Paul Harrell would say I have no illusions that my thoughts are housed in a mind of greatness.   LOL
Paul is a fun, entertaining, and educational GunTuber who unfortunately is dying cancer.  There was a big push to get his channel up to over a million subscribers before he died.  Its over a million subscribers.
If you want to see some great restoration and repair videos check out Mark Novak.  He covers rust bluing, spring making, and a host of other interesting topics.
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Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
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