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On 6/21/2024 11:57 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:If I'm going with plywood/leather jaws I might as well use the regular vise . It's bolted to a stool but easily held down with a foot bracing on a rung of the stool . Mill vise is currently under the mill table . I've got an Arctic Cat 600 vertical twin cylinder block on the mill . We're boring out the cylinders for new sleeves , he's making it into a 660 ... and putting a belt drive blower on it . Gonna be wild ."Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v54fn9$39fft$1@dont-email.me...A pipe vise is awesome for holding, but he wants to create zero cosmetic damage. Pipe jaws in a bench vise, or the chain style pipe vise will both dig in. I'm not even sure I'd risk prismatic aluminum soft jaws for the zero chance of cosmetic damage he is going for. I'd go straight to the leather surfaced plywood vise jaw liners.
On 6/20/2024 5:07 AM, Snag wrote:
>Just looking at it , The barrel being octagon I can put it in my mill vise with some padding . Using a wrench on the barrel is almost certainly going to damage the finish . A nice sized chunk of hickory with a couple of notches to engage the frame top and bottom straps might be stout enough to rotate the frame - or maybe not .>
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A mill vise will probably work, but I never have one mounted anywhere
other than a mill table. I like the bench vise (very heavy steel bench)
for this sort of work because I have it on the corner where I can work
all the way around a part.
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Someday when I have a layout and assembly table that doesn't suffer from
HSD (Horizontal Surface Disease) I may mount both a bench vise and a
mill vise on the table for different things. A mill vise is better for
things like a hydraulic tapping arm if I ever decide I need one.
Bob La Londe
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Somewhere I saw a suggestion of a pipe vise bolted to a heavy timber for unscrewing things that required a lot of torque and custom machined jaw inserts.
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