Sujet : Re: Tapered Pins
De : muratlanne (at) *nospam* gmail.com (Jim Wilkins)
Groupes : rec.crafts.metalworkingDate : 23. Jul 2024, 14:15:36
Autres entêtes
Organisation : A noiseless patient Spider
Message-ID : <v7oafa$17f3u$1@dont-email.me>
References : 1 2 3 4 5
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"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news:v7m99o$p65m$1@dont-email.me...I'm an idiot. Since the taper is the same 1:50 for inch tapers and 1:48
for metric tapers of all "standard" taper pins I can just use an "off"
size reamer to finish out the hole. Doh!
-- Bob La Londe-----------------------------------------I didn't suggest following with a second smaller reamer because I couldn't think of a way to ensure it aligned with the first radially and axially, the necessary extended shank could let it wander and there's no easy way to know when to stop. I'd ream to position the large head of the pin relative to the surface, cut off the small end and bin it for later. For a small pin in a deep hole I'd use a dowel or roll pin instead.Hammerlock chain links have another way to retain a pin. It's turned smaller in the center and passes through a nested pair of large split roll pins with their slots opposed. They expand to let the end pass, then shrink onto the smaller center. Unlike shackles one end is no larger than the bow and fits into chain links. The pin is fairly easy to hammer or squeeze in and punch out.https://www.riggingwarehouse.com/rw-lifting-rigging-hardware/rw-connection-repair-links/rw-hammerlocks.htmlThis is the preferred fitting to splice one chain to another, hammerlocks are wider to accept multiple chains for slings.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Titan~Chain/TCML13.html?feed=npn&gad_source=1I had to go beyond hardware store G30 chain to a logging equipment supplier to upgrade my hoisting gear for the heavy logs.
The drill press vise would be for the mill, to hold large but light material, mainly sheet metal for electronic control panels etc, plus give more badly needed working space under the spindle for upright jobs like 5C collet blocks. My Clausing 8525 mill is the early version without the column riser block. I had to remove the hard jaws to clamp 6 squares of 5" wide 14 ga steel for a hole saw, and wider steel would have been better for hoist baseplates. At Unitrode I replaced a worn-out drill press with an RF-31 mill drill and bought an 18 lb 6" drill press vise for it instead of a 70+ lb milling vise that could crush a foot. Machine work for electronics is mainly on aluminum sheet and light extrusions, and no one wears steel toe boots.