Re: Drilling chainsaw bar

"Leon Fisk"  wrote in message news:vbfi68$tpko$1@dont-email.me...
On Fri, 6 Sep 2024 10:10:59 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:

On 9/6/2024 4:06 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

I'd like to attach a 20" Husqvarna bar to an Alaskan mill with flush
flathead screws ...

Maybe just knock out 1 or 2 rivets and use those holes?
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That's a good idea to avoid drilling the hardened center of the bar tip sprocket bearing. The rivets on mine are smaller than I want the screw(s) to be so I tried a 1/8" Harbor Freight glass drill reground nearly to a split point, which did the job. A 3/16" glass drill opened the hole for a #10 screw (~5mm) which is close to the 6mm provided to screw the bar to the lower clamp.
Since I want to use it to cut off a slab part way down the rounded edge of logs the clearance needs to be greater on the bottom side and the lower bar clamp would be in the way. I cut off only enough to fit the log between the uprights of the sawmill carriage.
The clearance is 22". If I'd made it 24" I could have sold a carpenter friend a custom solid oak bar top blank for around $1000. His customer demanded just a little more length and width than my saw's capacity.
I turn these logs to cut another side by hanging their ends from loops of rope run through snatch block winch recovery pulleys. A Peavey hook lever is enough to turn a 2000 Lb log.