Re: Drilling chainsaw bar

"Jim Wilkins"  wrote in message news:vc1rak$vbke$1@dont-email.me...
"Leon Fisk"  wrote in message news:vbfi68$tpko$1@dont-email.me...
On Fri, 6 Sep 2024 10:10:59 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:

On 9/6/2024 4:06 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

I'd like to attach a 20" Husqvarna bar to an Alaskan mill with flush
flathead screws ...

Maybe just knock out 1 or 2 rivets and use those holes?
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That's a good idea to avoid drilling the hardened center of the bar tip
sprocket bearing. The rivets on mine are smaller than I want the screw(s) to
be ...
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Also the grease holes are aligned with the ID of the sprocket, the roller bearing outer race, so I can't see the size of the inner pivot which might not have enough clearance to open the rivet holes. A 20" bar that fits my saw, which was meant for 18" max, is expensive and hard to find. Longer bars use a different chain pitch and tip sprocket.
My saw is a little below the suggested minimum for an Alaskan mill though it's been enough for occasional partial-width slabbing with a different ripping guide that's tricky to align accurately. I just finished cutting off a first slab and am about to start the other side.
The guide is this type:
https://www.amazon.com/Chainsaw-Attachment-Cutting-Vertical-Portable/dp/B0BFVY6MBN
It works well enough if the log is small enough to attach the plank to the top, but I need the guide plank beside the log part way down for the bar to reach through the slab.