Sujet : Re: Timber frame joint rings
De : Snag_one (at) *nospam* msn.com (Snag)
Groupes : rec.crafts.metalworkingDate : 03. Oct 2024, 03:16:07
Autres entêtes
Organisation : A noiseless patient Spider
Message-ID : <vdkupa$3iv9n$1@dont-email.me>
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On 10/2/2024 3:47 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/24/2024 4:27 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
Does anyone have experience with using metal rings to reinforce timber frame joints?
https://www.splitringconnectors.com/
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I'm thinking of cutting some scrap 1-1/2" steel tubing (1.66" OD, like water pipe) into rings that could be split open to fit into the kerf of a 1-3/4" hole saw. They would mainly take the shear stress on diagonal braces of the replacement shed frame I'm building from 5" square oak. 5" made full use of the logs I slabbed to 21" wide to fit between the uprights of my bandsaw mill.
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The joints can be drilled 1/4" for trial assembly, then the 1/4" holes used to pilot the hole saw into the joining faces of the disassembled frame, to align the ring kerfs. A lag screw will pull the joint together but not have to hold all the shear force between the brace and frame. This avoids a metal splice plate on the outside that would wear holes in the tarp covering. The tarps open completely to dry the lumber stored inside.
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tia, jsw
Okay, I looked and I read. Why are they better than nailing plates? Price? Production truss plants made the nail plate popular, but trusses were built with plywood plates and and nails before that, and small pieces of plywood are pretty cheap. Even as expensive as plywood sheets are these days.
Every truss used in our house has plywood plates and nails . I cheated though , I used a pneumatic nail gun . The scissor trusses for the vaulted ceiling in the kitchen/dining room were the most fun . Nothing has failed and killed anybody yet ...
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