Re: Pin material ?

"Clare Snyder"  wrote in message news:i52c4k56pnnkastspvqkbdne5rcnu3aor0@4ax.com...
I use grade 5 or grade 8 bolts as feed stock, depending on required
strength and hardness. - or even grade 3 if that is all that is
required. I go by the head markings to know what I have - - -
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I do that too. Threaded rod couplers are also useful stock for custom parts. Unlike iron pipe, the threads on brass pipe nipples usually run true to the OD, as mandrels for modifying threaded fittings.
Rolled bolts' threads and shanks are never quite parallel so I buy high strength bolts long enough to chuck the shank with the threads exposed and turn the threads to the next smaller 5C collet size, and center-drill the end. When reversed in the collet the shank usually runs true enough for high strength, low accuracy projects like tractor parts. I also center-drill the head, just in case it needs center support, and may face the bearing side of the head truer than as-stamped or turn a locating step in it to center in existing oversized or worn and rebored holes.
The currently pending bolt project is threading a 3/4-10 bolt shank to 3/4-16 to fit a female-threaded hitch ball, after I finish the hitch mount for the garden tractor, after the carbide grinder stand is done and the SiC, diamond and Al2O3 wheels redistributed to more appropriate grinders, with shop-made center bushings as needed. This hitch manually swings up and down, supported and adjusted by 5/8" threaded rod in the original too-low hitch ball hole. The trailer was made for a snowmobile and needs a higher hitch ball than for yard trailers.
Grades 5 and 8 can be turned and threaded at reduced speed with HSS lathe bits.
While researching diamond grinding I found advise that dry grinding steel is OK below 4500 surface feet per minute, above that use coolant. Perhaps that's why Darex diamond wheels last.