Re: Unplanned Upgrade

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:104hp0r$360bo$1@dont-email.me...
Its not turning, but it is generating heat.  I suspect its a candidate
for what is generically called compressor burn out.  Usually they trip
breakers, but not always.
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It may be drawing "locked rotor current" which I would (quickly) measure, due to either mechanical binding or failure in the start circuit; relay, capacitor or contacts. On my old Maytag it's around 40A, if the start switch doesn't close. I shut it off, kick the motor until the switch clicks, then it starts normally.
https://forums.mikeholt.com/threads/locked-rotor-current-purpose.686/
A properly rated time delay breaker will pass the brief starting current and open for continuous locked rotor current.
https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/Carling-HM-CB-Time-Delays.pdf
A junior engineer was asking me (lab manager) to order unusual quantities of oscilloscope camera film so I asked him what he was doing. He was trying to determine how long a fuse took to blow at various overload currents, and was confused because of the wide variance between individual fuses, since he couldn't test the same fuse twice. Electrical engineers learn ideal component behavior, not the messy practical details like we hands-on chemists had to. I showed him graphs like that and had no more film requests.
I bought a few inexpensive thermal breakers for car audio that testing showed would open at their rating one time, then the contacts apparently burned and caused the breaker to heat up and trip at lower and lower currents. The AC + DC-rated Carlings I put in my solar battery system open consistently and repeatedly within the specification.