Re: poor man's decal

Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

On 4/2/2025 7:57 AM, Liz Tuddenham wrote:

[...]

Usually the entire surface and a bit beyond, then trim off the excess.

 
Doesn't that make it hard to remove?  Or, are yours "small(er)"?
(Note my smallest is 8x17 and they quickly get larger)

Most of mine are on die-cast boxes about 4" x 6".  There is always a
layer of double-sided tape showing at the cut edge, so it can be prised
open at the corner with a knife or similar imstrument.

I was
assuming I would need a low tack adhesive -- almost like Post-It
notes...

There is an adhesive called "Copydex" in the U.K., which is a latex
emulsion that becomes rubbery when the water component evaporates.  "Low
tack" would be a polite way of describing it - the problem isan't
removing it, but getting it to stay on in the first place.  I have used
it to stick paper copies of the artwork onto the  front panel to use as
a drilling jig, then it can be peeled off easily.  The latex tended to
wrap itself around the drill bit  . . . followed by the paper label.

I have used PVA adhesive, with much greater success.  It wouldn't be any
use for permanent fixing on metal but the non-waterproof grade holds the
label long enough to allow drilling and can easily be removed with water
and a scouring pad.

[...]

I was planning on making a form onto which the label could be
positioned "upside down".  Then, mate the label-carrying form
to the panel surface.

That's a good idea if all your panels are the same size - no two of mine
are ever alike.

[...]

True, but i have known these acetate labels to survive nearly 5 years
outdoors on a south-facing wall (in English weather, which is not the
severest of UV tests).

 
Yes, but no one is likely *poking* at it.

My front panels get a bit of prodding and scuffing - but nothing too
violent.

[...]

The acetate sheet can be ripped off, so the solvent attacks the sticky
stuff fairly directly.

 
I can try it.

If you use White Spirit, the smell will be no worse than fresh paint and
will clear quite quickly.  There is also a form of refined petroleum
("White Gas") sold by Colemans for their camping stoves, that is more
flammable but doesn't leave any lingering smells at all.

I will try a spray adhesive instead of double-sided tape
as that seems like it would be easier to address a large surface.
E.g., when you reinstall a headliner, that's the approach taken.

You might find the solvent attacks the print.  Several thin layers,
sprayed from a distance, are preferable to one thick layer sprayed
closely.

[...]

(this is why I prefer replacement
for most items -- carry the "failed" unit back to the depot
for analysis/repair but get the customer back up and running
quickly.

And doesn't depend on the serviceman having the skill and experience to
spot the cause that caused the cause of the fault.

[...]

You can see a picture of the sort of results I have managed to obtain
at:
http://www.poppyrecords.co.uk/other/DistortionMeter/Manual.pdf

 
Do you precut the openings?  Or, as you mentioned above, "burn"
through the acetate once the label is affixed (less of an alignment
problem, there)?

After fixing the acetate sheet I burn them through with a soldering
iron, then trim up the flash with a rat-tailed file (file towards the
panel, never away from it).  On that particular piece of equipment, I
may have cut around the meter hole with a knife because it is rather
large.


--
~ Liz Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk