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On 08/06/2024 23:53, Don Y wrote:In the US, we are required (new construction) to have two dedicated 20AWe mostly fit double outlet sockets 20-30 cm above worktops on the wall.
(2400W) circuits to service countertop "small appliances". In addition,
there is also a requirement for a relatively tight spacing between
(duplex) receptacles -- the intent to keep cords short (IIRC, < 4ft...
we settled on 3').
SWMBO was watching a britcom and commented at how few receptacles/outlets
were in evidence to serve the countertop. Granted, each outlet is rated a
fair bit higher than US (each US outlet being 2400W -- the full load rating
of the branch circuit supporting it). But, still, how do you address
NUMBERS of appliances in use, concurrently -- where each appliance will
likely draw only a fraction of the rated branch circuit's current so
total load isn't an issue?
E.g., we (presently) have a ~1KW microwave oven and a ~1KW toaster as
ever-present loads. To that, it is not uncommon to add an electric
wok, hand or stand mixer, pizzelle iron, etc. The abundance of
outlets makes it easy to add appliances as well as providing flexibility
over where they can be put into use.
Each socket ( there can be several spread around the kitchen area) can
supply ( in theory) 30 Amps @ 230V. Back at the main fusebox, there will
be a 30 Amp MCB( miniature contact breaker). All the sockets are wired
in a 'ring main' format to prevent excessive volt drops at any outlet. A
kettle will have a typical power rating of 3kW so ~13 Amps draw. Other
main appliances - dish washer/washing machine/oven etc mostly have thier
own separate supplies. Ovens will be wired using 6mm
cable.Microwave/toaster coffe maker will be plugged itto a wall socket
in the kitchen. Plugs will be fitted with either 3A/5A or 13A fuses
depending.
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