Re: poor man's decal

On 4/2/2025 10:23 AM, Liz Tuddenham wrote:

Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
 

On 4/2/2025 7:57 AM, Liz Tuddenham wrote:

[...]

Usually the entire surface and a bit beyond, then trim off the excess.

>
Doesn't that make it hard to remove?  Or, are yours "small(er)"?
(Note my smallest is 8x17 and they quickly get larger)

 Most of mine are on die-cast boxes about 4" x 6".  There is always a
layer of double-sided tape showing at the cut edge, so it can be prised
open at the corner with a knife or similar imstrument.

Hmmmm... the exemplar you provided seemed to be larger than that (?)

I was
assuming I would need a low tack adhesive -- almost like Post-It
notes...

 There is an adhesive called "Copydex" in the U.K., which is a latex
emulsion that becomes rubbery when the water component evaporates.  "Low
tack" would be a polite way of describing it - the problem isan't
removing it, but getting it to stay on in the first place.  I have used
it to stick paper copies of the artwork onto the  front panel to use as
a drilling jig, then it can be peeled off easily.  The latex tended to
wrap itself around the drill bit  . . . followed by the paper label.

Yes, we have similar adhesives ("rubber cement", etc.).
There are actually a shitload of different adhesives available
for different purposes.  Usually the desire is for strong holding.
But, some applications deliberately want low tack (e.g., in masking
artwork)

I have used PVA adhesive, with much greater success.  It wouldn't be any
use for permanent fixing on metal but the non-waterproof grade holds the
label long enough to allow drilling and can easily be removed with water
and a scouring pad.

I used a spray adhesive to repair a headliner.  Granted, it's not
a heavy weight to support.  *But*, it is "upside down" perpetually
(so, gravity is trying to pull it off) and very large (a dozen square
feet?).
I will have to see if I can locate the remnants of the can as I am
sure I didn't use all of it.

I was planning on making a form onto which the label could be
positioned "upside down".  Then, mate the label-carrying form
to the panel surface.

 That's a good idea if all your panels are the same size - no two of mine
are ever alike.

I have some applications that are "multiples" and others that are
singletons.
If I constrain the singletons, then I may be able to make a
"customizable form" that I can readily adapt to the needs of
the instance.  Note that it doesn't have to hold any significant
weight so need not be "substantial" in composition; rather, just
something that acts as "many hands" holding parts of the label
until it is time to release ALL of it.

True, but i have known these acetate labels to survive nearly 5 years
outdoors on a south-facing wall (in English weather, which is not the
severest of UV tests).

>
Yes, but no one is likely *poking* at it.

 My front panels get a bit of prodding and scuffing - but nothing too
violent.

I opted for the 7 mil variety of laminating film as it adds a bit
more armor (3 mil is just cosmetic; 5 mil is probably marginal;
10 mil is probably overkill)

The acetate sheet can be ripped off, so the solvent attacks the sticky
stuff fairly directly.

>
I can try it.

 If you use White Spirit, the smell will be no worse than fresh paint and
will clear quite quickly.  There is also a form of refined petroleum
("White Gas") sold by Colemans for their camping stoves, that is more
flammable but doesn't leave any lingering smells at all.

For personal use, I am not averse to mild solvents (I have nothing
stronger than xylene and MEK on hand -- though I rarely progress beyond
mineral spirits when looking to dissolve adhesives as some of the
solvents are too aggressive against plastic surfaces -- or, will take
the "patina" off).
I tried "odorless mineral spirits", once, and found it hugely disappointing
compared to "real" mineral spirits.

I will try a spray adhesive instead of double-sided tape
as that seems like it would be easier to address a large surface.
E.g., when you reinstall a headliner, that's the approach taken.

 You might find the solvent attacks the print.  Several thin layers,
sprayed from a distance, are preferable to one thick layer sprayed
closely.

I need to find the leftovers, first, so I can make a test pass with
it.  I can visalize the can -- but not the WRITING on it!  :<

(this is why I prefer replacement
for most items -- carry the "failed" unit back to the depot
for analysis/repair but get the customer back up and running
quickly.

 And doesn't depend on the serviceman having the skill and experience to
spot the cause that caused the cause of the fault.

Exactly.  Use him as an extension of more capable peoples' (based in the
depot) limbs.
And, the customer sees a quick turn-around -- instead of standing
over the serviceman's shoulder wondering WHEN he will be done and
*if* he will actually leave them with a functional system.

You can see a picture of the sort of results I have managed to obtain
at:
http://www.poppyrecords.co.uk/other/DistortionMeter/Manual.pdf

>
Do you precut the openings?  Or, as you mentioned above, "burn"
through the acetate once the label is affixed (less of an alignment
problem, there)?

 After fixing the acetate sheet I burn them through with a soldering
iron, then trim up the flash with a rat-tailed file (file towards the
panel, never away from it).  On that particular piece of equipment, I
may have cut around the meter hole with a knife because it is rather
large.

A *pointed* Xacto knife isn't suitable for the whole task?  Or, do you risk
the cut "tearing"/"running" through the acetate to areas undesired?