Re: poor man's decal

On 4/3/2025 1:11 AM, Liz Tuddenham wrote:

There is an adhesive called "Copydex" in the U.K., which is a latex
emulsion that becomes rubbery when the water component evaporates.  "Low
tack" would be a polite way of describing it - the problem isan't
removing it, but getting it to stay on in the first place.  I have used
it to stick paper copies of the artwork onto the  front panel to use as
a drilling jig, then it can be peeled off easily.  The latex tended to
wrap itself around the drill bit  . . . followed by the paper label.

>
Yes, we have similar adhesives ("rubber cement", etc.).

 There are some very strong rubber cements with organic solvents, Copydex
is a water-based emulsion and is very weak.

"Rubber cement" (generic) is generally regarded as a poor adhesive,
here.  It is often used just to glue paper objects together (e.g.,
photos, collage, etc.).  The fact that it can be easily removed
(e.g., for mis-application) is an asset.
It is not generally regarded as a good long term adhesive because
it tends to "rot" (for want of a better word).  It is also often
acidic so can damage the items adhered with it.
Perhaps the most notable part is that it can be used as a sort of contact
adhesive (apply to both surfaces, let dry, mate) instead of having to
work with it "wet" (which is also possible but a bit messier)

But, some applications deliberately want low tack (e.g., in masking
artwork)

 That's the sort of thing Copydex is used for, you can rub it off with
finger pressure.

Ditto with the rubber cement.  You don't end up with the "super-glue"
situation (where your finger now wants to stick to everything!)

I used a spray adhesive to repair a headliner.  Granted, it's not
a heavy weight to support.  *But*, it is "upside down" perpetually
(so, gravity is trying to pull it off) and very large (a dozen square
feet?).

 The area shouldn't matter, for every extra square foot of material there
is an extra square foot of adhesive.

But applying and removing it present challenges.  Imagine one of
your project boxes that is 4 ft by 4 ft and trying to get things
aligned -- while working on it FROM BELOW!

(I have nothing
stronger than xylene and MEK on hand

 Either of those should work.

I would hope NOT to need to resort to either of those.  I always prefer
using the least volatile/active substance that will meet the challenge
out of respect for the other parts involved (e.g., acetone makes a mess
of most things).
Remember, there are other things beside the panel that can come in
contact with any applied solvent.

After fixing the acetate sheet I burn them through with a soldering
iron, then trim up the flash with a rat-tailed file (file towards the
panel, never away from it).  On that particular piece of equipment, I
may have cut around the meter hole with a knife because it is rather
large.

>
A *pointed* Xacto knife isn't suitable for the whole task?  Or, do you risk
the cut "tearing"/"running" through the acetate to areas undesired?

 The holes produced that way tend to be jagged and the knife is soon
blunted by cutting into the aluminium panel.

OK.  Even a swivel blade would "find" the panel.

A soldering iron gives a
nice smooth finish but throws up a 'flash' of melted material which is
easily trimmed off with a file.  It is a quicker and more accurate
process than trying to cut tiny circles with a knife.  The knife is good
for trimming excess tape off the outside edges.

What about a rotary tool like a dremel to abrade the plastic that
isn't "backed" by aluminum?
I am planning on just using punches to knock out any holes (in the
laminate and/or printed sheet) BEFORE mating to the panel.  Any
holes (though the entire decal) would also serve to orient the
decal to the panel; less chance of it coming into adhering contact
in the wrong place...