Re: 309SS or ER70S6

On 7/23/2024 10:55 AM, David Billington wrote:

On 23/07/2024 16:12, Snag wrote:

On 7/23/2024 8:29 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Snag"  wrote in message news:v7o9n9$17apc$1@dont-email.me...
>
   My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the
head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
consideration . Replacement pins are available ...

>
  I decided to go with the ER70S6 , followed by case hardening . Turns out it is actually quite hard as-welded - might actually need to be tempered - so I skipped the case hardening . I'm waiting for a call back from the neighbor since I kinda melted a sharp corner and it's going to be a bitch to try to build up - this thing is only about 3/8" in diameter with a flat on one side . I can cut that bit off if taking off a sixteenth will be acceptable . Most of these nail guns have a depth setting so I'm thinking it won't be a problem to shorten it but I want to check with him to be sure .

 If a spare part is available then I would use that unless prohibitively expensive. What sort of welder are you using. I refurbish glassblowing jacks occasionally using a TIG welder and O1 as filler and that leaves quite a hard deposit that I temper once built up to the required level. It's like welding on the edge of a blunt knife blade and worthwhile considering what new ones cost so long as they haven't worn so much it's beyond saving.
 

   I'm using an Everlast Powertig 250EX set at 25 amps with 15CFM argon shield . I cut up a soda can to help keep shield gas on the part . Filler was 3 .030" strands of ER70S6 solid MIG wire twisted together .
--
Snag
  Illegitimi non carborundum